This is an article that I wrote for the UK Scottish Terrier Association's Junior Handling handbook what my experience in Junior Handling is and what my thoughts are about what is required to be a great handler.
What is Junior Handling?
Junior Handling is a sport for young dog enthusiasts. Its meaning is to increase the interest toward dogs in young people and to prepare them for show handling. This means that junior handling should be as close to the normal show handling as possible, the only difference being that the handlers are young. The age classes in UK are 6-11 years, 12-16 years and 17-24 years.
What makes a great handler then? Passion for dogs is a must. If you don’t love dogs, then you can’t make dogs love you. And that leads to a situation when your performance isn’t any good. To become a great handler you should be able to manage to get a great contact with whatever dog. This requires a soft hand which means gentle treatment when training or showing the dog. Dogs are living creatures and not machines, which is why they have to be treated well. A great handler does know all tricks how to train a dog. She/he doesn’t know one or two ways but many to get the best out of a dog. The handler should hide the bad parts of the dog and highlight the best sides. This requires knowledge in dog anatomy. The handler should aim to get the dog in the spotlight, not herself. A great handler does the judge’s work as easy as possible by being always one step ahead the judge i.e. always having the dog in the right place, moving the dog in straight figures so the judge can see the dog’s movement etc.
In the ring she should pay attention toward the other handlers, the judge and the dogs. She should be polite and humble. In my opinion, a person is a great handler when she manages to do all this!
Junior handling gives the juniors so much! You get plenty of similar-minded friends which is a big part of this hobby. You get to know breeders, dog owners and other involved. Your knowledge expands depending on how eager you are to learn.
What makes a great handler then? Passion for dogs is a must. If you don’t love dogs, then you can’t make dogs love you. And that leads to a situation when your performance isn’t any good. To become a great handler you should be able to manage to get a great contact with whatever dog. This requires a soft hand which means gentle treatment when training or showing the dog. Dogs are living creatures and not machines, which is why they have to be treated well. A great handler does know all tricks how to train a dog. She/he doesn’t know one or two ways but many to get the best out of a dog. The handler should hide the bad parts of the dog and highlight the best sides. This requires knowledge in dog anatomy. The handler should aim to get the dog in the spotlight, not herself. A great handler does the judge’s work as easy as possible by being always one step ahead the judge i.e. always having the dog in the right place, moving the dog in straight figures so the judge can see the dog’s movement etc.
In the ring she should pay attention toward the other handlers, the judge and the dogs. She should be polite and humble. In my opinion, a person is a great handler when she manages to do all this!
Junior handling gives the juniors so much! You get plenty of similar-minded friends which is a big part of this hobby. You get to know breeders, dog owners and other involved. Your knowledge expands depending on how eager you are to learn.
My story:
I started with junior handling in summer 2005. I had competed in the Child&Dog competition before this in match shows. One day I was late for the child&dog competition and I had to enter the junior handling competition even if I was too young. I was scared of competing against much older handlers than me, but placed 5th out of 20 competitors - that was huge! The show bug bit me and after that I had the courage to enter myself into an official competition.
My biggest achievements throughout the junior handling years were the Finnish Championship 2010, the Nordic Championship 2009 and the World Championship 2011. In Finland the age limit is from 10 years until the year you turn 18. I liked to compete with different kind of dogs and breeds. In the beginning I competed a lot with small dogs, but when I got more self secure I started competing with big dogs too. Those became my favourites because I love running and showy dogs!
In my junior handling years I competed with over 50 different breeds, which shows that I like to explore new opportunities. I recommend getting to know different kind of dogs, the more you show the more you know!
I have two small dogs at home, kleinspitzes. They’ve both been successful at shows but are for now taking a break.
Thanks to my junior handling years I know how to show several different breeds, and now I continue as an all breed handler. I recommend the juniors would show different breeds also in the show ring during their junior handling time. Then it’s easy to continue and you already have familiar dogs that you can show.
My biggest achievements throughout the junior handling years were the Finnish Championship 2010, the Nordic Championship 2009 and the World Championship 2011. In Finland the age limit is from 10 years until the year you turn 18. I liked to compete with different kind of dogs and breeds. In the beginning I competed a lot with small dogs, but when I got more self secure I started competing with big dogs too. Those became my favourites because I love running and showy dogs!
In my junior handling years I competed with over 50 different breeds, which shows that I like to explore new opportunities. I recommend getting to know different kind of dogs, the more you show the more you know!
I have two small dogs at home, kleinspitzes. They’ve both been successful at shows but are for now taking a break.
Thanks to my junior handling years I know how to show several different breeds, and now I continue as an all breed handler. I recommend the juniors would show different breeds also in the show ring during their junior handling time. Then it’s easy to continue and you already have familiar dogs that you can show.
How to get the best out of the dog:
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The handler should know the best and the worst parts of the dog so she can hide the bad parts and highlight the best ones. She should have a great knowledge in dog anatomy. Examples:
The dog has bad rear angulations - don’t stretch its legs too far
The dog has a steep front - put the judge’s sides front foot more back than the other
The dog has a hunchback - stretch it by giving treats while the judge examines its topline
The dog lifts its front feet while moving - move slower and don’t talk to the dog so it keeps its head forward
The dog has an arched back - lift it under the ribcage and support from below
The dog has too big eyes - if you’re outside, stack the dog toward the sun and it will squint its eyes.
The dog should have fun in the ring and not look like it has been dragged there against its will. This is very important to remember!
There are plenty of tricks and tips - study handling books and watch different breeds in shows. Learn from the best and you’ll get tips worth gold! It’s a hard work but it pays off - and learning is fun! Nobody’s ever finished as a handler, you can always learn new things.
Co-operation:
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Me and my little "Ninja" playing in the ring
© Mikko Marttinen
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This is the most important part. If the handler doesn’t co-operate with the dog, then it won’t either. And the result of this is either a catastrophe or a performance with a dull dog that doesn’t even look at the handler. In my opinion this is the worst thing that can happen. How to get the co-operation to work then? Start with just playing with the dog. Do what the dog loves the most, casual things. Talk to the dog, pet it, go for a walk - what ever normal. If the dog lives with you, then the situation is totally different, and you have probably made a strong bond between you and the dog already in the everyday-life.
If you haven’t met the dog before and you’re on the way to the ring, then you should do some quick exercises. As I mentioned before, start with playing with the dog. Make your meeting a positive one. Talk to the dog with a gentle voice, pet it or go crazy with it! If it’s a typical terrier for example - go crazy! Start playing rough games and do everything to get the dog to be comfortable with you.
If the dog is shy then you should do the opposite. Calm down the dog, pet it gently and talk with a friendly voice. Give the dog treats and try some tricks like sit or lie down. Tricks are a great way to build up a great contact with the dog. Often the dog immediately focuses on you, and realizes you’re the one she gets the treats from and also that you’re in charge.
The more time you have with a dog you’ve never met before, the better. If you don’t have much time, then do the best you can. The most important thing is to give the dog a positive experience, and the next time will already be better.
If you haven’t met the dog before and you’re on the way to the ring, then you should do some quick exercises. As I mentioned before, start with playing with the dog. Make your meeting a positive one. Talk to the dog with a gentle voice, pet it or go crazy with it! If it’s a typical terrier for example - go crazy! Start playing rough games and do everything to get the dog to be comfortable with you.
If the dog is shy then you should do the opposite. Calm down the dog, pet it gently and talk with a friendly voice. Give the dog treats and try some tricks like sit or lie down. Tricks are a great way to build up a great contact with the dog. Often the dog immediately focuses on you, and realizes you’re the one she gets the treats from and also that you’re in charge.
The more time you have with a dog you’ve never met before, the better. If you don’t have much time, then do the best you can. The most important thing is to give the dog a positive experience, and the next time will already be better.
Attention to the judge:
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| Give 100% when the judge is watching |
The handler should always pay attention to the judge. It’s him the handler and the dog is there for after all. With paying attention I do not mean staring at the judge - do not do that! What I mean is to follow what the judge does, when you should be stacking your dog or moving and so on. Always listen carefully what the judge asks you and don’t try to be fake happy. A pepsodent smile is worse than no smile at all. Smile to the dog when it comes naturally - show the judge that you love working together with your dog. Nothing is better than a happy dog wagging its tail and a handler that smiles to the dog because of that.
Attention to the others:
If the judge asks all to move together, check that the others are ready before you start moving your dog around the ring. It’s inappropriate to just start running and not care about the others. What the judge wants to see is all the dogs’ movements at the same time, so that she can compare them to each other. Do not run over the others! This happens quite often at it is totally unacceptable. Keep a steady distance to the next, so that her dog won’t be disturbed by yours.
Breed knowledge:
It’s a great advantage to know what different breeds look like, what kind of dogs they are and how to show them. I think at least that it is fun to learn about different breeds and I’m genuinely interested, but knowledge in breeds and dog anatomy seems to be uninteresting for juniors these days. I recommend the juniors to study a lot about different breeds, it’s a part of the dog show world.
It’s a great advantage to know what different breeds look like, what kind of dogs they are and how to show them. I think at least that it is fun to learn about different breeds and I’m genuinely interested, but knowledge in breeds and dog anatomy seems to be uninteresting for juniors these days. I recommend the juniors to study a lot about different breeds, it’s a part of the dog show world.
Figures:
The most common figures are: Up-and-down, Triangle, Around the ring and Together up-and-down.
Some judges ask for figures like “T”, “L”, “8” etc. In my opinion they are not needed. Why? Because you have to change hands all the time to keep the dog on the judge’s side and it starts to look like a circus. Also, the judge can see the dog’s movement from the exact same angle when asking up-and-down or a triangle.
Hard stack:
A basic stack is the dog standing steady on all four feet, head facing forward. Front legs should be right under the dog’s front and the rear legs stretched, so that their hamstring is in a 90 degree angle. If the dog leans to one side, it won’t look balanced. Keep this in mind when holding the head or the tail. Stacking your dog shouldn’t take more than 5 seconds. At the time you know exactly what you do, your dog will look fabulous in just a few seconds! Though, it’s important to be fast BUT calm. It’s not enjoyable to look at a stressful handler which leads to a restless dog.
Step 1: Keep the head steady with your right hand by holding the lead, collar or the muzzle.
Step 2: Move one of the front legs so that it stands on the same line as the other. Optimally just one of them; if you start moving each leg separately, the dog usually loses its carriage. If you move the left leg - use your left hand. If you move the right leg, use your right hand, or your left.
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| Step 2 |
Step 3: Hindlegs. Normally you move both of the dog’s hind legs to the same line, but if the dog’s anatomy doesn’t allow that, then you can leave the leg on your side more forward. A 90 degree angle for the hamstring is a good basic rule. This, of course depends on the dog. A more angulated dog can be stretched more and a less angulated not so much.
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| Step 3 |
Step 4: The tailset varies very much from breed to breed. It’s determined by the type of the dog. If it is for example an english pointer, which points out the birds in the woods by standing with their tail as an extension to its body, on the same height as the back, then you hold the tail on the same height as the topline when stacking. Look at pictures of your breed, study their original intended use and watch the breed rings
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| Finished! |
Remember - there are exceptions, and these steps are just guidelines for a basic dog. For example english bulldogs and similar breeds are stacked with their front facing the judge, not their side.
Free stack:
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| Free-stacking a Thai Ridgeback |
The free stack is your chance to show the judge that your dog has the correct structure and can stand on its feet by itself. Also, you have an opportunity to show the judge that you have a great contact with the dog. Free stack means that you don’t touch the dog or move its legs with your hand and it stands right in front of you freely on its own feet. The only thing you hold on to is the lead. When you free stack your dog, it is important to remember to keep a solid distance between you and the dog. If you stand right in front of the dog, it won’t look balanced. If you keep a distance of about 0,5-1,5m, that will be ok. By doing this, you give the dog space and show the judge that you don’t have to hold on to the dog to make it look balanced. This will also look very showy.
Showing the expression:
This is mostly for the terriers, but also other breeds when the judge wants to see the dog’s expression. If the judge walks around your dog and stops at its face, then he’s looking at its expression. What is your job now? Keeping the expression as alert and breed typical as possible. This is often an easy job, just put some treats in front of the dog’s face. How much does the judge see of the dog’s expression then? Not much. You can keep a treat in front of the dog’s face, but keep it rather far from it’s head so it doesn’t disturb the judge and also keep your hand steady. The judge doesn’t want to see a waving hand instead of the dog’s expression.
This is mostly for the terriers, but also other breeds when the judge wants to see the dog’s expression. If the judge walks around your dog and stops at its face, then he’s looking at its expression. What is your job now? Keeping the expression as alert and breed typical as possible. This is often an easy job, just put some treats in front of the dog’s face. How much does the judge see of the dog’s expression then? Not much. You can keep a treat in front of the dog’s face, but keep it rather far from it’s head so it doesn’t disturb the judge and also keep your hand steady. The judge doesn’t want to see a waving hand instead of the dog’s expression.
A great handler wears comfortable, clean and stylish clothes. You should be able to bend down on your knees as well as run around the ring. By wearing appropriate clothes you respect the judge. This means - don’t go to the ring in clothes like this:
- Sweaterpants/sweater
- Too short skirt (has to reach the knees), but should not be too long because you won’t be able to run
- Too short jacket/shirt/pants so people can see your back
- High heels. This is an absolute no. You can not walk or run smoothly in these and there is always a risk of stepping on the dog with heels.
You don’t necessary need to wear a suit, but I see it as the best option. It is rather comfy, it has pockets for the treats and it is stylish. A nice shirt or dress is also fine, but remember - it has to be usable.
- High heels. This is an absolute no. You can not walk or run smoothly in these and there is always a risk of stepping on the dog with heels.
You don’t necessary need to wear a suit, but I see it as the best option. It is rather comfy, it has pockets for the treats and it is stylish. A nice shirt or dress is also fine, but remember - it has to be usable.
What to remember:
Remember to be remembered! A judge can have many juniors to judge which means he won’t remember every one of them. This means you have to make a great first impression, because then he’ll watch you all the time.
How to show a Scottish terrier:
Remember that the Scottish terrier really is a terrier! Your job is to get the terrier attitude out of the dog. It should be alert, playful and have a real attitude. If I were to describe a scottie’s perfect stack it would be:
Head: Alert ears, head facing forward and a bit down, so that you get a nice curve on its neck.
Feet: Strong front feet right under the ribcage, rear feet should not be stretched too far, it’s okay if they’re not that stretched. A basic 90 degree angle for the hamstring is good.
Tail: Tail should be in “10-11 o’clock” position on the back, so that it continues on the same line as the rear feet and coat.
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| Scottish terrier |
Moving a scottie: Movement should be efficient and alert. Don’t hold your hand too high, a 90 degree angle for the hand is here also a good position. Keep the dog’s lead high up right under the ears and the muzzle. This makes you control the dog better, and it can’t lay down its head for example.
Normally the handler stacks the dog after doing a figure. When showing terriers you should instead show their expression. This means a 1-2 meter distance from the judge and the dog should stand facing the judge with an alert expression. Use treats to get the dog’s expression alert, but don’t put them in front of the judge’s face.
Keep in mind that the coat is on the right place all the time, especially the face hair. The “beard” should always be combed forward and down toward the dog’s nose.
I wish everyone joyful training sessions with lovely dogs and success in shows!! :) Feel free to leave a comment if you want to share your thoughts!
- Hilde
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